“The roads are long and desolate, it is hard to come by grocery stores and other amenities, but the people are very nice.” Upon entering Texas these were the phrases I had heard the most that pertained to the vast expanse that is West Texas. All this proved to be true for the most part, and I made it through what would probably be one of the hardest stretches of my journey with the help and advice from the people I met on the road. I prepared adequately (all but a couple times) for the long town-less stretches and got through them pretty comfortably.
I was welcomed to El Paso by blue skies, which was a relief, after spending the previous day in throat-parching dust. Riding the streets of El Paso I discovered I was in the “Burrito Capital of the World.” Over the course of the next couples hours, riding through the city, I celebrated with stops at three different taquerias; trying a variety of burritos. Gassed up on tortillas, beans, green chili and cheese I caught highway 180 east out of El Paso. Highway 180 was scenic, and a great road to start my ride through Texas on. The scenery was beautiful, a great contrast to some of the long dull stretches that would come later on in the week. Realizing how close I was, I ended up taking a detour to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, climbing the highest peak in Texas, and then cutting back down towards Interstate 10 to catch highway 90 at Van Horn. After getting on the 90, I continued my search for National Parks and took a couple hundred mile side trip down to Big Bend, where I explored the Terlingua Ghost Town and camped in the Chisos Mountain Range for a night. The mountain valleys and vast rock formations that lined the roads were a sight to see and the extra miles were well worth it. Up until Big Bend I had hit no real wind in Texas that was not a tailwind. This all changed very quickly. On way north from Big Bend back to highway 90, I got caught battling 30-50 mile and hour winds head on for almost a week. They lasted from Big Bend all the way to Del Rio. If there has been one discouraging moment during this journey, so far, the wind would be it. Moving at a seemingly sloth-like pace for 5 days, yet still covering a good amount of miles I eventually rolled into the border town of Del Rio. I found a cheap RV park to camp at outside of town. With weather reports of a big storm coming in over the weekend I thought about waiting it out in Del Rio for a couple days, but in the end decided Austin,TX could not wait. I had a wonderful breakfast with two very friendly Del Rio locals who went by the names, Thelda and Shug. Refueled on all the breakfast fixin’s and pancakes, I rode on. Pedaling through West Texas was undoubtedly a challenge, more so when it was actually happening. Looking back on it now, it was just another leg of the journey, one that had to happen. Stay tuned for more on Texas.
Looking down on El Paso, TX and Ciudad Juarez, Mexico.
In an effort to make as big of a dent in Texas as possible, the first day in the state. I covered quite a bit of ground, riding till the sun went down. Ending my first day in Texas with a ride into the sunset.
Texas salt flats sitting at the base of the Guadalupe Mountain Range.
Riding into Guadalupe National Park just south of Carlsbad, New Mexico.
At the top of Guadalupe Peak, which sits at 8,749 feet, the highest point in Texas. Originally I had not expected to climb this peak, as it was 9 miles round trip, had 3000 feet of elevation change with ice and snow covering parts of the trail. All I had to hike in was a pair of old Crocs. It turns out that at the campground self-registration, sitting on a trash can, were a pair of size 8 running shoes. They appeared to be brand new and were a perfect fit. I borrowed the shoes for a day, and they got the job done, leaving my feet intact at the end of the hike. Funny how things work out on the road.
Descending Guadalupe Pass a couple hours after climbing Guadalupe Peak, seen in the background.
Beautiful skys and towering rock faces along highway 54 in West Texas. Rogue-camping at its best.
Its hard to pass up a good mural on the road. Heres one in Alpine, TX, home of Sul Ross State University and probably one of the largest, most developed towns I rode through in West Texas.
After a week of barren desert road-sides, I got a treat riding into Big Bend National Park. Lupine lined the highway for miles providing for some ooing and awwing on my part.
The Study Butte roadside Mariachi Band.
Entering one of the gems in Big Bend National Park, The Chisos Basin. The 6 mile climb up to this spot was miserable, but after a couple hours of steep grades and a headwind, I was treated to a quick downhill, a well-developed campground, and wonderful views of the park.
After spending a day in the Chisos Basin I got to coast back down out of the mountains. Here with “Casa Grande” Mountain in the background.
On the more challenging stretches of road having music to keep you going is a necessity. To charge my ipod and cell phone I have been rigging up my GoalZero solar charger to the top of the trailer, to charge as needed while riding. It has worked out well.
With a quarter jar of peanut butter left and a 100 miles to go to the next grocery store, I pulled over at this rest stop for the night. The idea was to save some energy by not having to set up and break down the tent. Fortunately, later in the evening a well-traveled trucker named Steve pulled over to rest. Being the nice guy he was, he shared some of his food and some good stories with me. Thanks for the help Steve!
Thelda and “Shug.” Some great people I was lucky enough to share a meal with in Del Rio, TX. These two were curious about my trip and generous enough to help fuel me up on pancakes. I am very lucky to have met such kind-hearted people, of which are no exception to the friendly West Texas stereotype. Thanks guys!
Standing above the Pecos River, the first real body of water I came across in Texas.
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